1869 – Mark Twain Comes To Iowa City.

Samuel Clemens (1835-1910) – a.k.a. Mark Twain – is known as the Father of American Literature, and is much more associated with his home state of Missouri than he is with Iowa. Yet, interestingly enough, Clemens has quite a colorful history with The Hawkeye State, and one very unique story that comes from his 1869 visit to Iowa City. So, here goes…

Samuel Langhorne Clemens was born in Florida, Missouri on November 30, 1835, and when he was 16 (1851), he began working as a typesetter, contributing articles and humorous sketches to The Hannibal Journal, a newspaper that his oldest brother – Orion Clemens – owned and operated.

In 1853, Orion Clemens (upper left) moved north to Iowa, purchasing The Muscatine Journal, and Samuel (age 18) followed, continuing his newspaper work with his brother over the next year or so. In his classic book, Life on the Mississippi, Samuel fondly recalled the sunsets of Muscatine – writing…”I have never seen any, on either side of the ocean, that equaled them.”

In 1854, Clemens moved back east to pursue more training in journalism, but returned, once more, to Iowa in 1855, working for his brother, Orion, at his new printing office in Lee County – earning $5 per week! It was here, in Keokuk, where Samuel accomplished two firsts – 1) he received his first earnings for his writings, and 2) he made his debut as a guest speaker! On January 17, 1856, Samuel gave his first after-dinner talk, speaking at the Benjamin Franklin Printers Festival Banquet. And as you can see (below), the local newspaper – The Daily Gate City – in a detailed report on the evening’s festivities, comments on Sam’s much-applauded wit and humor…

Here are a few facts about Samuel Clemens’ two-year stint in Lee County. 1) In a letter to his mother in 1886, Clemens remembered Keokuk’s hot weather — “heat so extreme it could make a person cry.” 2) In his autobiography, Clemens recalled the bitter winter of 1856, when he found a $50 bill blowing by him on the snowy pavement. 3) During his time in Lee County, Clemens knew a gentleman by the name of Thomas Sawyer! Sound familiar? Most historians believe that Mark Twain – who started writing his novels in the 1860’s – used a number of his Iowa connections, like this one, for names in his writings!

In 1857, Samuel Clemens left Iowa to become trained as a steamboat pilot on the Mighty Mississippi (read more here), and it wasn’t until twelve years later – in 1869 – when he returned – as Mark Twain – lecturing at Keokuk, Davenport, and Iowa City. Which brings us now to our Mark Twain comes to Iowa City story…

As we discuss on another page, there were several grand halls in Iowa City during the middle of the 19th century – the largest of which was The Metropolitan Hall – located on the corner of Dubuque & Washington Streets (where today’s Jefferson Hotel stands). The Metro played host to many big name lecturers such as the British soprano – Anna Bishop, American newspaper editor and publisher – Horace Greeley, American abolitionist – Frederick Douglass, and the American orator and advocate for women’s rights – Anna Dickinson. So, it was with great excitement, in early January 1869, when it was announced that Mark Twain would be giving the first lecture of the new year (see below)…

So, on Friday evening – January 15, 1869 – Mark Twain took to the stage at The Metropolitan Hall – offering his lecture – The American Vandal Abroad. Twain had just completed a lengthy tour of Europe and was now making his way around America telling his witty stories that surrounded his time abroad.

But wait.

According to the review in The Iowa City Republican, the evening was less than successful…

As a lecture it was a humbug … We were very much disappointed that there was so little substance to his lecture. We would not give two cents to hear him again. Iowa City Republican – January 20, 1869

**The Clinton House** – picture courtesy of the Johnson County Historical Society.

So, with his less-than-spectacular lecture behind him, Twain went back to his hotel room in the nearby Clinton House, and from what we read in the newspaper (below), the next morning seemed to bring out The Vandal from Missouri…

And, just to make Mr. Twain a little bit more peeved as he left Iowa City, here’s what happened as he stepped onto the horse-drawn omnibus – located just down Washington Street…

But wait, there’s an epilogue to this ‘1869 Mark Twain comes to Iowa City’ story…

Might we say, Mr. Twain, might have been a bit temperamental in his earlier days of travel? Reports have it that – following his temper tantrum, Clemens told his friends that he would never visit Iowa City again, which if records are accurate, he did not. He did, however, send a letter of apology to the landlord and the staff of The Clinton House, asking for forgiveness for his abhorrent behavior. Good move, Mr. Clemens – good move. And, oh, by the way, sorry about that sore hip!