Our Iowa Heritage: Let’s Go To City Park! (Part I)

Today, one of the nicest aspects of living in Iowa City is its abundance of recreational activities. According to our city’s website, Iowa City is home to over 50 parks, natural areas, and open spaces, with almost 100 percent (99.4) of Iowa City residents living within one half-mile of open green space.

Hats off to the Parks and Forestry Division, which provides and maintains our parks and trails for the residents of our fair community.

City Park #1 – 1839: In the Beginning…

L. Judson’s map (1839)
Iowa City’s first City Park.

It’s interesting to look back through our city’s history and see that it’s always been important to have plenty of open space available to its residents. In earlier posts, we’ve discussed how Iowa City’s origin is unique as compared to other cities. Iowa City, you see, from the very beginning, was a planned city – built for an explicit purpose.

So in 1839, as city planners laid out one-square mile of Iowa City, you can see from L. Judson’s map (above) that a City Park was an important component. In a later map developed in 1868 (below), you can see the artist’s rendition of that same City Park, located two blocks east of Old Capitol, between Iowa Avenue and Jefferson Street.

1890: Land Development vs. Green Space – Let the Battle Begin.

As Iowa City drew ever closer to the turn of the 20th century, controversy about City Park abounded, with the leaders of our fair city facing the hard decisions all growing communities must grapple with. In 1890, forty-three years after its inception, The State University of Iowa was quickly running out of space. Rumor had it that the Iowa State Legislature just might move the university to a more centrally-located community, just as they had done in 1857 when they voted to relocate the state capital to Des Moines. In order to appease the Board of Regents, the city fathers decided to donate City Park to the University for building expansion.

City Park was replaced with this $50,000 monster. Click here for details.

As you might imagine, this decision sparked an outrage. Iowa City historian, Irving Weber, gives us some more details…

For the full story on this part of SUI Red Brick Campus, and how this delicate issue of progress vs. green space surfaced again in the 1970’s, click here.

1905-1910: The Six-Sided Fountain – You, Two Horses, and Three Other Friends Can Get a Drink!

(P-0041) Ornate Hexagonal Watering Trough (1905-1910)  Located on Iowa Avenue & Dubuque Street. Made for two horses with four ornate drinking fountains for people! Iowa City historian, Irving Weber, believed The Fountain, which was eventually moved to City Park, was lost over time, with no trace of it remaining today.

So, Round One went to the city. Some believe that, in order to pacify the church ladies, the city leaders decided to erect a “decorative hexagonal fountain” right in the middle of the intersection of Iowa Avenue and Dubuque Street (see pics above & below)…

A wide, park-like Iowa Avenue was originally planned as the main entryway into our city from the east. Approximately, one mile east of the Capitol Building would be the Iowa Governor’s Mansion (Governor Street) which, when the capital moved to Des Moines in 1857, never was built.

City Park #2 – In the Beginning…

Now, let’s turn our attention to the eventual replacement of Iowa City’s first City Park. To do that, I must take you, once again, back to our city’s origins.

In 1840, an early Iowa City pioneer named Walter Butler purchased a large portion of untamed prairie located north of the city – which today includes large portions of property adjacent to the Iowa River in both Iowa City and Coralville. Later that same year, Butler sold some of his property to Walter Terrell, who had a vision to build both a dam and a flour mill just north of town (see pics below).

“A Distant View of Iowa City” (from the north) as sketched by George H. Yewell in 1855. In the bottom left corner notice Walter Terrell’s mill.

Click here to read the full story about Walter Terrell and his successful mill business.

In 1843, Walter Terrell, with the help of a skilled carpenter, Irish immigrant William Windrem, built a dam and a three-story grist (flour) mill on the Iowa River just north of Iowa City (what is today – directly in front of the Mayflower Apartments). Settlers from the surrounding area came to Terrell’s mill to grind corn, oats, rye, and wheat.

1880’s – 1906: Iowa River Recreation & The Island.

The Mill – yes, the long-time downtown Iowa City bar was named after Terrell’s mill.

The Mill prospered for nearly forty years (1843 – 1881), both under Terrell’s ownership, and others after Terrell died. But the flood of 1881 changed all that, severely damaging the property. Terrell’s daughter, Mary, and her mother bought back the property at that point, intending to restore both the dam and mill, but whether the mill continued to operate past 1881 is not officially known.

(P-0293) Circa 1900

With the mill out of service, the area immediately surrounding the property became a popular gathering place. As you can see from the above picture, ‘Mill Hill’ provided a nice Sunday outing for Iowa Citians, particularly when water levels were low. Which now brings us to The Island (see picture below).

The Island (picture is taken from the north east corner of the Iowa River, looking south and west. Iowa City is to the left, Coralville to the right) – circa 1930’s.

When Walter Terrell built his dam & mill (1843), there was an island in the center of the Iowa River. So, Terrell built his dam in two sections. One part was built from the eastern side of the island to the present Dubuque Street side, and the other was built from the island west to what is today, City Park.

The island never had a name and, according to Iowa City historian, Irving Weber, it was always simply called “The Island.” About 75 yards long and 25 yards wide, with a heavy growth of trees; at one point in its history, an attempt was made to establish a beach on The Island, but the two barge-loads of sand quickly sank into the river’s muddy bottom!
(P-0064) A 1910 – Valentine’s Day Surprise! The Island was a popular spot for boating, canoeing, swimming and picnicking, and it is said to be the place where “many a lover’s troth was pledged there.”
Nearby was Fitzgerald’s Boathouse where one could rent a canoe, paddle over to The Island and enjoy a secluded get-away!
(P-0224) This postcard tells us how the good folks of Iowa City loved the recreational opportunities offered by the Iowa River and The Island.

The 1903 Iowa River Flood – Setting the Stage for City Park #2 (1906).

In 1903, the Iowa River flooded again, and this time, Terrell’s daughter, together with her husband, Mr. Euclid Sanders, gifted the dam to the University of Iowa’s School of Applied Sciences. The University paid $600 to repair the dam and promised to protect the family from “possible nuisances” caused by development near their home.

Because City Park is built on a floodplain, it has experienced considerable flooding from the Iowa River throughout the last century. Most of the worst floods on record have taken place over the last twenty-five years. The flood that Walter Terrell experienced as owner of City Park land in June of 1851 was 24.10 feet and is now only the fifth worst flood on record. The floods that stopped the mill’s production under new owners in 1881 (21.10 ft) and eventually completely damaged the mill under his daughter’s ownership in 1903 (15.00 ft), were the fifteenth and fifty-first highest floods on record, respectively. Since then, the highest flooding has occurred in the late-twentieth and early-twenty-first centuries:
June of 2013 (24.90 ft.)
July of 2014 (25.15 ft.)
August of 1993 (28.52 ft.)
June of 2008 (31.53)
Burlington Street Dam and Power Plant.

In 1905, the dam was relocated down river (Burlington Street) and became the University’s Power Plant. In 1906, with the land now cleared, the city purchased 78-acres from the Terrell Estate for $10,000, and Iowa City established City Park that same year.

Banker Paul A. Korab of the Iowa City State Bank played a major role in the development of City Park in 1906.

When City Park opened in 1906, access to the new park was limited. One would need to walk or ride in a carriage across the Iowa Avenue Centennial Bridge to get there. But that all changed in 1909.

1909 – The Park Bridge opens.

In 1909, the Park Road Bridge opened, connecting the east side of Iowa, where most people lived, directly to the new City Park.

The new Park Road Bridge included street car rail service as well! Click here to read more about this Iowa River bridge.

City Park – 1906 to 1930 – The Penny Postcard Era.

Back in the day, prior to Polaroid snapshots and phones with cameras, penny postcards were the best way for anyone to “take pictures” of places you’ve been. For 1-cent, you could mail a beautiful postcard that had a scenic picture on one side and room for a brief message on the other.

(P-0246) Welcome to City Park.

Obviously, one of the more popular subjects chosen for penny postcards in Iowa City was the new City Park. Enjoy some of the scenery…

(P-0049) 1907 – Here’s a beautiful postcard featuring the Entrance to City Park – The postcard writer adds “This is that new park across the river. Remember?”
(P-0270-g) features several of the City Park shelters.
(P-0270-i) Birch Bridge on Birch Lake was a popular attraction. Historian Irving Weber believed the lake was the final resting place for the famous Iowa Avenue “six-sided fountain” we showed you earlier.
(C-0218) City Park – Circa 1915.
(P-0202) City Park – Circa 1915.

Click here to see more turn-of-the-century postcards showing recreational fun on the Iowa River…

We hope you enjoyed our little history lesson.

But wait . . . there’s more to our City Park story. Click here to go on to Part II.

Kudos to the amazing resources below for the many quotes, photographs, etc. used on this page.

Iowa City – City Park, Think Iowa City

On Iowa, Irving Weber, University of Iowa Press, 1996, pp 61-62

City Park, Iowa City Parks, Laura Hayes, University of Iowa Library

City Park Virtual Tour, City of Iowa City.gov

Click here to go on to the next section…

Click here for a complete INDEX of Our Iowa Heritage stories…

Click here for a complete INDEX of PEOPLE-PLACES-THINGS…

Click here for a complete INDEX of stories listed CHRONOLOGICALLY…

Click here for a numerical INDEX to all of the U.S. postage stamps, postal cards, and coins in our collection…