Recalling pleasant things and taking the time to dwell on them.
1880’s – A Tour Of The SUI Campus.
Allow me to take you back to 1882 – Iowa City. The city’s population is around 7,500, and, as for the State University of Iowa (SUI), while it was officially organized in 1847, classes have only been meeting on the small campus for less than 30 years. Below, is a campus map from 1882. Besides the nine SUI campus buildings, it includes eleven other important landmarks in downtown Iowa City, as well.
This 1882 campus map comes from the big book with the even bigger title –History of Johnson County, Iowa containing a History of the County and the Townships, Cities and Villages from 1836 to 1882 – Together with Biographical Sketches.
So, now, let’s take a brief walking tour of the SUI campus of 1882 – using this map and the two pages of corresponding information (below) given us from this large historical reference volume. To fill out our journey, we’ll add in some additional details and include some photographs to help you get a better “picture” of the SUI campus in 1882.
Let’s start, of course, on University Square (below) – today’s Pentacrest – where we’ll find the great majority (5 of 9) of the SUI campus buildings in 1882…
Of course, any walking tour of Iowa City must include what, today, is called Old Capitol. Back in 1882, the old Iowa Statehouse was not a museum, but was known as Building A – Central Hall – a vital part of the SUI educational campus. You can read more here.
North Hall was constructed in 1865, to be used, in part, as a University Chapel. The original recommendation, made by Governor Samuel Kirkwood, requested funds for a chemistry laboratory, chapel and astronomical observatory, and over the years, North Hall – the two-and-a-half-story, red-brick classic – certainly became a multi-use facility. Until it was demolished during the summer of 1949, its greatest distinction was that of being the oldest existing structure actually built for the University’s use – grandfathered into on-going campus purposes from its glory days to 1949. During its lifetime, North Hall was also called Chapel Hall and Building B – Library Hall. You can read more here.
South Hall will be remembered as the three-story, ten-chimneyed, red-brick building which stood directly south of Old Capitol. Building C – Classical Hall served the University for forty years – 1861-1901 – first as a dormitory/boarding hall and later, as a classroom building, providing a meeting place for students and faculty alike. Measuring one hundred and eight feet north and south by forty-five feet east and west, South Hall lacked uniformity in style, for the scarcity of funds necessitated the modification of plans at several intervals during the process of construction. You can read more here.
In 1882, Building D – Medical Hall was the newest building on campus. Constructed to house the new Medical College, over its short 19-year existence, this stately building was twice remodeled, the last time in 1888. Twice struck by lightning and once having its roof torn off in a wind storm, the nemesis which seemed to pursue this building completed its work of ruin on a wild night – March 10, 1901 – after a storm of ice and sleet had been raging for hours. The fire alarm was turned in at 2:15 in the morning and a great crowd gathered to watch the fire and offer assistance – but it was too late, for the flames made short work of the interior wooden construction. You can read more here.
Building E – Armory. Located directly south and west of Old Capitol, this two story 30-foot by 40-foot dual-purpose facility served as the first steam power plant for the central campus (1879-1904), plus was the first Armory before being replaced by a larger Armory (1905) located near the Iowa River adjacent to Iowa Field. In its latter years (1904-1920), after the Power Plant was replaced with a larger facility closer to the river, the building lost its tall chimneys, becoming the Hall of Electrical Engineering. You can read more here.
Now, let’s leave University Square and head eastward across Clinton Street. As we walk onto Iowa Avenue, we find a row of buildings both to our left (N. Clinton), and to our right (S. Clinton). Without a doubt, Clinton Street, as it was originally planned, has become the busiest, most trafficked section of town. When it comes to the SUI campus, there is one building being used in 1882. It is located in the center of the first block of North Clinton Street…
Building F – Homeopathic Medical Department was built at 14 N. Clinton – the two-story red-brick building set back from the street.
From 1870 to 1901, the SUI Allopathic Medicine Department was housed in South Hall and the Medical Building – both located on University Square directly south of Old Capitol. But beginning in 1878, SUI also sponsored a Homeopathic Medicine Department, building a small two-story facility directly east of University Square on an empty lot on North Clinton Street. In 1895, a new, larger facility was built on City Park property. You can read more here.
Before we leave Clinton Street, we should mention the three other buildings found on the 1882 SUI Campus map…
From north to south – Building L – The Congregational Church, Building K – The Unitarian Church,and, crossing Iowa Avenue, Building P-O – The St. James Hotel – which included the Iowa City Post Office on the first floor. In the 1890’s, The Unitarian Church was purchased by SUI, making it into the University’s first Student Union. You can read more here. Across Iowa Avenue – on South Clinton Street – stood the grand St. James Hotel – Iowa City’s finest until a fire destroyed the property in April 1916. You can read more here. Today, the only building of the three that still remains is the Congregational Church – located on the corner of Clinton & Jefferson Streets.
Walking north from the Congregational Church (Building L) on North Clinton Street (see map below), we cross Jefferson Street, and turning right (east), we begin our trek down Iowa City’s “church row”..
Pictured above – Building R – The Iowa City Academy (far left). Over the years, the Academy educated some of Iowa City’s finest, and in 1916/1917, evolved into University High School of Iowa City, Read more here. Also pictured above – Building S – St. Joseph’s Institute (far right). Sponsored by St. Mary’s Catholic Church, this boy’s academy was a highly successful training school near the end of the 19th century.
Pictured below – Building T – St. Agatha’s Women’s Academy. Opening in 1862, St. Agatha’s was an excellent training school for women, sponsored, like St. Joseph’s, by St. Mary’s. You can read more here.
Walking further east on Jefferson Street, we cross Dubuque Street, and to our left is Building M – The Methodist-Episcopal Church (above left) – today’s First Methodist, followed by Building N – St. Mary’s Catholic Church (above right). Today, both church congregations are faithfully serving our local community. You can read more here.The original layout of Iowa City (1839) included a city park – located just east of Capitol Square.
Now, let’s cross over from St. Mary’s Church – on the north side of Jefferson Street – into the beautiful City Park. As you can see from the 1839 map (above), one entire city block from Iowa Avenue – on the south – to Jefferson Street – on the north – was designated as Iowa City’s original green space. When the land-locked SUI threatened to move from Iowa City to Des Moines in the late 1880’s, the City of Iowa City gave the university that city block so that new construction could be done. You can read about that controversial decision here. But back in 1882, directly east of City Park was…
When completed in October 1842, the Mechanics Academy was the finest school building in all of Iowa Territory. With both a male and female department led by three top-quality teachers brought in from the east, this private school was in full operation, boasting an enrollment of 120 pupils. In 1855, SUI purchased the building, making it into the university’s first classroom facility and the first home of the SUI Library. Once North and South Halls opened adjacent to Central Hall (1860’s), Mechanics Academy transformed into a men’s dormitory. But in 1873, everything changed, once again. You can read more here.
In 1873, four Sisters of Mercy traveled from Davenport by train, carrying as many furnishings and medical supplies as they could manage. They came at the invitation of Dr. Peck, who wanted the Sisters to establish a “practicing” hospital in Iowa City. Such a hospital would provide a facility where SUI medical students could gain clinical experience and the Sisters could pursue their mission of caring for the poor and sick. When the Sisters arrived at the Iowa City train station, a kindly local farmer offered to take them to their final destination in his wagon. The Sisters were greeted by Dr. Peck and set to work immediately, cleaning and refurbishing Mechanics Academy. Within three weeks, on September 27, 1873, the new Mercy Hospital admitted its first patient—a gentleman with tuberculosis. You can read more here.
Now, before we leave this section of the city, allow me to address the two additional buildings listed on this portion of the 1882 SUI campus map.
Building U – Iowa City City Hall – In 1881/82, Iowa City built a new City Hall Building at the corner of Washington & Linn streets. The Fire Department headquarters was moved to this building and remained in that building until 1962, when the building was demolished.Click here to read more about City Hall and its place in Iowa City “skyscraper” history.Building W – Iowa City’s Second Ward School. City records show that from the 1850’s to the late-1880’s, Iowa Cityhad four Ward schools scattered around the city working with all levels of students.Records indicate that Building W – located on Gilbert Street, directly east of Mechanics Academy (G) – was the Second Ward school, working with students of all ages. It wasn’t until 1893 until a separate building was constructed – in Centre Market square – that was exclusively used as a high school.You can read more here.
As we near the conclusion of our walk through the SUI campus of 1882, let’s head back toward Central Hall, walking westward on Market Street. As you can see from the map (above), our first building on our right is…
Building Q – First Presbyterian or North Presbyterian Church. Under the leadership of Rev. Michael Hummer, construction on this building (above left) began in 1843. It took seven years to complete (1850), but sadly burned to the ground six years later (1856). It’s replacement, built in 1856 and today known as Old Brick (above right), is one of the few surviving pre-Civil War structures in Iowa City. The steeple (top right) was demolished in an 1877 wind storm and was rebuilt with a crenellated belfry (bottom right), giving Old Brick its distinctive appearance. Last used as a church in 1975, Old Brick was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973 as North Presbyterian Church. The first building is the infamous sight of one of Iowa City’s most entertaining belfry stories – Hummer’s Bell – Click here for the full bell-ringing story.
As we continue walking west on Market Street, we come to the home of SUI Professor Gustavus Hinrich – the rather eccentric scientist who has taken it upon himself to have a full-fledged weather observatory operating on the roof of his three-story brick home…
Building I – Professor Hinrich’s Weather Observatory. When North Hall was constructed in the 1860’s, SUI Professor Gustavus Hinrich suggested including an astronomical observatory. With money being tight, the idea didn’t fly, so in 1875, the good professor took it upon himself to build an observatory atop his own home – located at 9 East Market Street. By 1882, the observatory had become Iowa’s first weather station. You can read more here.
For our final stop on our 1882 SUI campus tour, we trek north on Clinton Street, removing ourselves from the bright lights of the city…
Building H – SUI Observatory #1 – In 1874, the SUI Board approved $4,600 for the erection of a separate observatory – a small brick building constructed at the north end of Clinton Street (see map above) – the spot now occupied by the President’s Home (1909). By 1891, the University decided to bring everything closer in to the Red Brick campus, so with the new Science Building (1884) nearby, construction began on a new observatory located directly on University Square – replacing the smaller one on North Clinton Street. You can read more here.
Our 1882 article on the SUI campus ended with these three closing paragraphs.
So, there you have it. Twenty buildings in Iowa City that played a huge role in the day-to-day, 1882 life of SUI students and Iowa Citians alike. Today, only five of those original buildings still remain:
Building A – Central Hall (Old Capitol – Pentacrest) Building L – Congregational Church (30 N. Clinton) Building N – St. Mary’s Catholic Church (228 E. Jefferson) Building T – St. Agatha’s Women’s Seminary (130 E. Jefferson) Building Q – Presbyterian Church (Old Brick – 26 E. Market)
And, only three are still being used as they were in 1882…
Building L – Congregational United Church of Christ (30 N. Clinton) Building M – First United Methodist Church (burned 1906 – replaced 1908 – 214 E. Jefferson) Building N – St. Mary’s Catholic Church (228 E. Jefferson)
